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mudflap [S] 6 points ago +6 / -0

Here it is installed: https://i.postimg.cc/Y2hJ1vJY/20200824-183053.jpg

I wrote detailed instructions on my blog: but I see the rule over there, so, I guess pm me if you are interested.....I'm not selling anything, just think it's cool I don't have to buy a door.

You just need some clamps and a tablesaw for tools. The rest is glue, nails, some screws, and the ability to make really precise cuts. This door would cost you at least $500 at the orange box store. It is a lot thicker than a standard door, so you need to countersink the hardware, or buy an extension kit. It is a good solid insulated door.

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ohhwerd 2 points ago +2 / -0

Any tips for building interior barn style doors?

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mudflap [S] 1 point ago +1 / -0

You would just buy those 1x6 T&G boards that I used and only put the z frame on one side and frame around the rest.

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Questionable 5 points ago +5 / -0

And now we know what an actual door looks like, unlike the garbage we are sold by the hardware stores.

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Birdbath 4 points ago +4 / -0

That looks terrific in situ. Well done!

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GuyWhite 4 points ago +5 / -1

Will it split with moisture changes? That’s why board and panel construction was invented.

I live in a half-log sided cottage with a gorgeous carved frontdoor - board and panel thirty years old.

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mudflap [S] 3 points ago +3 / -0

shouldn't - this one hasn't.

But don't paint it black and put it on the south side of your home in full sun, lol. (ask me how I know)....

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konoplya 1 point ago +1 / -0

i don't know much about door building in itself, but i'm in real estate and have seen many all-wooden doors. about half of them would have splits in them and others didn't. not sure if its type of wood used or treatment or what.

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GuyWhite 1 point ago +2 / -1

Construction technique. Board and panel don’t split as the panels are free to move, expand and contract with moisture and temperature.

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konoplya 1 point ago +1 / -0

i meant doors similar to the ones in OPs post

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mudflap [S] 2 points ago +2 / -0

the boards are T&G, 1" (3/4"), glued and nailed onto a 5/4 (1") frame. My theory is since there is no longitudinal expansion with wood (vertical), you don't need to account for expansion/contraction as much as with lateral (horizontal / perpendicular to the grain). This door works for the lateral expansion because of the T&G - each board can expand/contract into / away from the board next to it.

The only problem is - and I found out the hard way - don't paint the door black and put it in full sun on the south side of your house - it will warp. I will eventually build a wrap-around porch for the south side of the house, and that will eliminate the sun exposure. The other door (the finished on in the link above) is exposed to morning - noon sun, but it is not painted black. It has not warped or split at all.